looking for advice or pointers on re installing right rear A-frame

[70mford151a2]

Rick, so your saying that the bushing bolts have to be loose before the weight of the vehicle is on them, so why couldn't I loosen them up let it sit for a minute, and then re-tighten? will the fact that the shock is on make a difference? I wish I would have known this before

[rickf]

This is what I have been saying, loosen the bushing bolts, let the vehicle down, bounce it a couple times to settle things in and tighten the bushing bolts. If it has already been set down with the bolts tightened then loosen them, bounce it a few times and , me personally, I would let it sit for 24 hours to let the bushings relax again before tightening them up. You could just loosen and tighten I suppose. You said yours was still on stands so it should not be an issue.

[70mford151a2]

Yrs sir the body has been on stands the whole time. so today I took the tires off and pulled the cotter pins and backed off the castle nuts, it's still like that tomorrow I will put the tires back on ( removing the jack stands.
I'll set her down on the pavement let it sit awhile then retighten the castle nuts and replace the cotter pins. then it should be good. I still have to put the shafts back on and reassemble the brakes and all, I have some sour fuel in the tank ( long story) I always put stabil in the gas but a friend filled it up and didn't add it and I didn't know so it went bad in storage. now I have to figure out how to drain it. can't wait to get it road worthy lots of hills up here take care and thanks again Dave C

[Mark]

Siphon the gas out the filler hole, they make a siphoner,(no doing it the old fashioned way-sucking on a hose with your your mouth, that is bad for your health)

[rickf]

if you are lucky the drain plug on the tank will still come out. Not likely but worth a try. The tank is easy enough to get out that if the plug method does not work just take the tank out and upend it over a bucket. That will get 90% of it out.

[hondo100]

Correct me if I'm wrong,but looking at the rear of the jeep from the underneath, the brackets start with A on the right and proceed to G on the left with the letters facing out.

[hondo100]

I've got C,D and E,F backwards I think.

[Mr. Recovery]

Correct me if I'm wrong,but looking at the rear of the jeep from the underneath, the brackets start with A on the right and proceed to G on the left with the letters facing out.

Yes the letters are A&B for the Drivers side with A closes to the wheel, the letters face to the outside as in NOT against the frame, then C&D as you go across then E&F on the other swing arm and G&H with the H out by the passengers side wheel. Hope this helps to clear up the order of placement.

dan-2beers.jpg

[hondo100]

Thanks, I know what Sundays project is. Are the A2 and A1 the same as far as the lettering scheme?

[rickf]

The A1 is a completely different suspension so this does not pertain. The brackets on the A1 do need to go a certain way but they are not marked as far as I know other than part number.

Page 171 of the -20P from 78 will give you the part numbers for the brackets for the A1, Items 2,3,7,8.

[hondo100]

It's done. I'm ABCDEFGH. Wasn't too bad of a job, didn't have to drop the coil spring to do it. Will torque and cotter pin the bushing bolts/nuts in a few days. Thanks to all for the information.

[rickf]

Like I said before in the post, be sure the vehicle weight is on the suspension before tightening the bushing bolts.

[hondo100]

The power pack is not in it yet. Should I wait until it's installed?

[rickf]

Probably will not make a whole lot of difference in the rear but I would if it were me. Be sure to write yourself a note and stick it to the inside of the windshield to remind yourself to tighten the rear suspension after powerpak install. And if the outers are tight then loosen them now and let them rest until you tighten the inners so that way they all match.