Rear differential noise

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m3a1
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Re: Rear differential noise

Unread post by m3a1 » June 12th, 2021, 1:36 pm

I believe so. Keep in mind that your new yoke will need a speed-sleeve (or Speedi Sleeve, which is the brand name here in the USA) which is a pressed on sleeve that creates a beautiful smooth surface for that yoke to mate with the oil seal.

and

you might also consider replacing that rear seal which has probably taken a beating from the unusual rotation from the worn yoke. So, parts numbered 4, 5 and 6 in the diagram. Suggest you look up the part numbers in the -20P technical manual. Sometimes they can be found at a bargain price on eBay by searching by the part number rather than the part description.

Both are easy tasks to perform and I think you will find all these parts are inexpensive.

I understand that you are anxious to drive this but you must consider that the yoke might just as easily have been damaged by long term use with bad universal joints as it having been caused by the bad rear carrier bearing.

Whichever end the damage progressed from, the yoke is right in the middle and now, capable of damaging either, or BOTH ends... rear carrier bearing, or universal joints.

My recommendation would be that you do not persist in using it.

However, we cannot ignore the fact that you have already used it in this condition. If you feel you MUST continue to use it, use it SLOWLY so as to preserve your U joints and everything on the other end.

I've a feeling that you are nearly done with this project and I'm so glad you found this.

CONGRATULATIONS!

Cheers,
TJ

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Re: Rear differential noise

Unread post by rupert's » June 12th, 2021, 1:55 pm

Okay TJ, I'm going to start looking for the parts and change when I have time, without much rush but without forgetting ...
A pity, the 5 and 6 are new, they have traveled 15km, now I have to look for a new 5.
I'm going to look at the other end, the transmission of the other wheel, if it has valves and orgura I suppose I'll change both ...

Greetings and thanks for your explanations

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Re: Rear differential noise

Unread post by m3a1 » June 12th, 2021, 2:58 pm

Well, the seal is purely preventative labor. If it's not leaking now, I suspect you can get by with it but....

because you are already in there the job of replacing the seal is far easier and wouldn't it be nice to know that a year from now, you won't have to go back in and replace it? Surely it's lifespan has been shortened by all that wobble!

I'll leave that to your judgement.

And now, I will go back outside to my BIG job.

HALF TRACK!


Cheers,
TJ

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Re: Rear differential noise

Unread post by rickf » June 12th, 2021, 4:54 pm

TJ, Keep in mind that to use the sleeve you have to use the new seal that comes with it, the seal is a different size to mate with the sleeve. Over here that is all you can get but I remember Horst and a couple others telling me that you can still get the factory seals over there. So if his seal was just replaced he should be able to put in a new yoke without the sleeve and be good to go. The loose sleeve would not have damaged the new seal yet.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
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Re: Rear differential noise

Unread post by lpcoating » June 12th, 2021, 8:55 pm

If you really want to drive the truck for a bit before repairing, you could swap the diffs around and leave the front half shafts out. This would only give you rear wheel drive but you could get some miles on it until you have time to repair properly.

Guy
M151 Body Panels - http://www.m151bodypanels.com/

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Re: Rear differential noise

Unread post by rupert's » June 13th, 2021, 7:41 am

Voucher! I am going to take a look at the flange teeth to confirm that the wear is there and then I am going to buy the two flanges for the differential, the one on the right side also has a little play and comes out a little but very little valve.
I will use the car until they arrive, it will be approximately a month between purchase, shipment and installation, I guess nothing will happen.
The retainer that I have needs a sleeve, (https://www.g838.org/download/file.php? ... &mode=view) that is attached to the flange that I have to pull. I understand that Rikf tells me that I have to find a seal that does not need sleeve. So the catch I have does not work for me ...

On the other hand ... When I changed all the seals to the differentials 6 months ago I emptied the valve, which was very brown, normal after many years of standing, I have put new valve to the two differentials, and now I have made a review to check its been, in six months and I will have traveled 15 km and valve this again dirty brown, without use, without stepping on a puddle of water impossible to get water, I think it is traces of dirt from before. I've put new valvulin on him again.
Greetings friends

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Re: Rear differential noise

Unread post by rupert's » December 13th, 2021, 7:40 pm

I float this thread again to ditch the thread.
I have changed both flanges of the rear differential. Now it has less play in the transmission arms, (but still has a little) for now I will leave it at that.
I put the link of the video in case you want to see it or if you have something to contribute. Greetings friends.

https://youtu.be/jJne2UO4uCQ

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Re: Rear differential noise

Unread post by rickf » December 13th, 2021, 9:24 pm

Is that leftover play in the yoke or in the spider gears in the differential? There will always be a little play in the spider gears, That might be just a little more than usual but not enough I would be worried about it. They make differential spider gear replacement kits that have everything you need to replace the spiders and the cross they are on.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
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Re: Rear differential noise

Unread post by m3a1 » December 14th, 2021, 1:38 am

Clearly those yoke teeth are worn out of spec but, for future reference, what you might want to do when you check yokes, is not looking for rotational movement of the yoke but rather, lateral movement. In essence, the yoke will wobble rather than run true to the long axis of the shaft.

This is often caused by improperly maintained axle drive shafts that are not extending or contracting freely as the suspension moves. Stuck shafts will just beat the daylights out of the yokes and when that happens, no amount of tightening of the center retaining bolt will make the worn yoke tighten down.

Which brings us to the matter of the shafts which should never be over-lubricated. But, there is a fail safe valve on the female end of the yoke that allows for excess grease to escape what would otherwise be a completely enclosed space. Unfortunately, a filthy valve often looks like nothing more than a little pile of gunk that has not real purpose and it is located in a place that would often fail to justify the effort to clean it up.

And, while the valve is a genius solution, the unfortunate fact is, grease that escapes there is often not cleaned off. If allowed to harden over time, it will result in a blocked valve which brings us all the way back around to the origins of problems with worn yokes.

Cheers,
TJ

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Re: Rear differential noise

Unread post by Mark » December 14th, 2021, 1:52 am

Is using wheel bearing grease better than GA grease for the U joints, etc I think WB grease is a higher temperature rated?
mark


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Re: Rear differential noise

Unread post by rupert's » December 14th, 2021, 10:37 am

rickf wrote:
December 13th, 2021, 9:24 pm
Is that leftover play in the yoke or in the spider gears in the differential? There will always be a little play in the spider gears, That might be just a little more than usual but not enough I would be worried about it. They make differential spider gear replacement kits that have everything you need to replace the spiders and the cross they are on.
After changing the 2 output flanges the play was reduced and what I have in the differential seems normal.
m3a1 wrote:
December 14th, 2021, 1:38 am
Clearly those yoke teeth are worn out of spec but, for future reference, what you might want to do when you check yokes, is not looking for rotational movement of the yoke but rather, lateral movement. In essence, the yoke will wobble rather than run true to the long axis of the shaft.

This is often caused by improperly maintained axle drive shafts that are not extending or contracting freely as the suspension moves. Stuck shafts will just beat the daylights out of the yokes and when that happens, no amount of tightening of the center retaining bolt will make the worn yoke tighten down.

Which brings us to the matter of the shafts which should never be over-lubricated. But, there is a fail safe valve on the female end of the yoke that allows for excess grease to escape what would otherwise be a completely enclosed space. Unfortunately, a filthy valve often looks like nothing more than a little pile of gunk that has not real purpose and it is located in a place that would often fail to justify the effort to clean it up.

And, while the valve is a genius solution, the unfortunate fact is, grease that escapes there is often not cleaned off. If allowed to harden over time, it will result in a blocked valve which brings us all the way back around to the origins of problems with worn yokes.

Cheers,
TJ
I think I have play in the gearbox and rear drive arms. You had to start somewhere, and I started with the differential.
For the gearbox game I prefer to open a new thread with a video so I don't mix issues in this one. Greetings friends

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