Greasing my steering linkage

[09FordRanger]

Amateur question but that's me. I'm getting ready to grease my steering linkage. The July 88 LO says "Lubricate each lube point until clean lubricant comes through the seals." I thought the seals were there to keep the grease in and road gunk out. So greasing until it "comes through the seals" sounds like something akin to 'blowing the seals'. What am I missing here?
Also, somewhat related, the LO also shows a top and bottom fitting for the ball joints but I only find one on top. Again, what am I missing?
Thanks for any insights. As you can probably tell this is my first time through and the LO's and -20 manuals are gold.

[rickf]

Newer ball joints are lube for life and do not have fittings. I know, I don't believe it either. And as far as the seals, most lube type fittings have a cup seal where the grease will come out the sides. Some have captured seals that will blow out. Watch the seal as you put in the grease. If it is blowing up like a balloon do not force it the grease is now in there and it is fine. U-joints you definitely want the grease to come out to flush out crap in the joint

[09FordRanger]

Thanks. That's sort of what I figured but always nice to hear it from someone who has some real experience.

[ODRotorHead]

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This post (link below) started out with a discussion about differential oils, but transitioned to a discussion about chassis lubrication techniques and grease gun couplers/injectors. . You may find the information helpful:

https://www.g838.org/viewtopic.php?t=13822&hilit=grease

If you're new to military vehicles, be sure to look over the M151 lube order before you start - LO 9-2329-218-12 (26 July 1988).

Since zerk fittings have all but disappeared from modern vehicles, some folks aren't familiar with the basics (had this discussion with my son recently). . Even if you wipe them down after greasing, there will always be residual grease on the outside of the zerk ball/socket that attracts dirt while driving. . Before greasing, be sure to thoroughly clean each zerk head with a soft brush and a rag. If you don't, your fresh grease will push dirt and grit into the bearing you're trying to protect. .
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Zerk Fitting Cutaway 001.jpg

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If a vehicle has been neglected or left in storage for a long period, you may encounter a couple of common problems. The grease in the fitting may have hardened and caused a clog or, if moisture has gotten into the fitting, the ball spring may have rusted and failed, or both. When you pull the grease coupler off the zerk, wipe the zerk head and be sure the ball has reset to seal the socket. If it hasn't, you'll want to correct the condition before you put the vehicle back in service.

There are lots of internet resources that cover tools and techniques for unclogging zerk fittings. . Personal preference - especially if I don't know the vehicle's history - I replace troublesome zerks with new fittings. . Seized threads and broken fittings are always a risk, but most zerk threads are similar to pipe threads. . If they'll turn just a little, they free right up. .(some threads may be parallel) . Just be sure to clean all around the old fitting before you unscrew it.

Wiping excess grease off rotating bearings (U-joints) will prevent it from being slung everywhere and making a greasy-gritty mess.
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Most of us tend to take those little zerks for granted, but if you spend a few minutes researching zerk fittings (grease fittings) online you'll find there's a lot more to the subject than you may have realized.

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Hope this helps.

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