Generic jeep
Moderators: rickf, raymond, Mr. Recovery
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- Brigadier General
- Posts: 2519
- Joined: October 1st, 2010, 12:19 am
- Location: El Dorado, Arkansas
Re: Generic jeep
I'm wanting to get my suspension bolted back up so I can move it around, I want to paint the front without tearing it all apart, thinking degreaser, power wash, wire brush, power wash then some denatured alcohol. So, to my question, what will be my best paint to paint it with? POR15, Rustoleum Rust Reformer, etc., I know the rust reformer is about $7 a can, POR is three times that much, any suggestions?
Re: Generic jeep
Rust reformer or plain old Rustoleum primer and then paint. It will last longer than you do.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
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- Brigadier General
- Posts: 2519
- Joined: October 1st, 2010, 12:19 am
- Location: El Dorado, Arkansas
Re: Generic jeep
rickf wrote:Rust reformer or plain old Rustoleum primer and then paint. It will last longer than you do.
Degreased and power washed first round, knocked most of the dirt and grime off, blowed it off with the leaf blower, letting it dry before I put the wire brush to it, headed to Home Depot for some Rust Reformer.
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- Brigadier General
- Posts: 2519
- Joined: October 1st, 2010, 12:19 am
- Location: El Dorado, Arkansas
Re: Generic jeep
Turned into an all day project, so much wire brushing by hand, so many cracks and crevices, but I was able to get it accomplished, going to throw a top coat of Rustoleum paint on it tomorrow, found the Rust Reformer for $4.50 a can at Wally World, it actually turned out better than I expected.
Re: Generic jeep
I am not so sure about that as a reformer. I have sen the tests but it dries far to fast to be having any chemical reaction. I sprayed some of that on a rusty panel I had wire wheeled and some rusty metal primer right next to it. Next day I wire brushed over both areas and I was able to get down to rust under bot the reformer and the primer equally. It did not change anything any more than the primer. I left that piece out in the weather all winter and both areas stayed rust free (except where I disturbed it). But the price you payed for the reformer is a lot less than the primer so see what happens.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
Re: Generic jeep
I've been using this stuff ... so far so good but time will tell. I can get it local for about $60 a gallon.
http://www.mardonsalesllc.com/enrust
http://www.mardonsalesllc.com/enrust
1960 M151 Run #1
"There is one nut on a M151 that is very difficult to remove....." - K8icu
"She ain't a Cadillac and she ain't a Rolls, But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio" - Aaron Tippin
"There is one nut on a M151 that is very difficult to remove....." - K8icu
"She ain't a Cadillac and she ain't a Rolls, But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio" - Aaron Tippin
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- Brigadier General
- Posts: 2519
- Joined: October 1st, 2010, 12:19 am
- Location: El Dorado, Arkansas
Re: Generic jeep
Making a little progress, started putting the suspension back under it.
I used the old double socket trick to replace the bushings, even though I have a press, it's a pain in the butt to try holding it up and operate the press, so I find this is the easiest way when working by yourself, don't forget to put them in the freezer first, makes it so much easier.
I think I pulled something trying to hold these a-arms up so I could start the bolts.
The front end went in pretty easy with the use of the engine hoist.
I used the old double socket trick to replace the bushings, even though I have a press, it's a pain in the butt to try holding it up and operate the press, so I find this is the easiest way when working by yourself, don't forget to put them in the freezer first, makes it so much easier.
I think I pulled something trying to hold these a-arms up so I could start the bolts.
The front end went in pretty easy with the use of the engine hoist.
Re: Generic jeep
Hambone, you need a small sandblaster.
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- Brigadier General
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- Joined: October 1st, 2010, 12:19 am
- Location: El Dorado, Arkansas
Re: Generic jeep
I have a cabinet blaster, just not a pot, I have an attachment that will hook up to my power washer that will sand blast, I used it on the the rear a-arms.
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- Brigadier General
- Posts: 2519
- Joined: October 1st, 2010, 12:19 am
- Location: El Dorado, Arkansas
Re: Generic jeep
Making a little more progress, thanks for the NOS shocks, Fil, had to put 400 lbs.( no it wasn't my wife ) in the bed just to jack up the a-arms to connect the shocks.
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- Brigadier General
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- Joined: October 1st, 2010, 12:19 am
- Location: El Dorado, Arkansas
Re: Generic jeep
Hey Rick, you will be proud of me, no bondo, just blending wheels, turned out better than expected. also got the floors Rhino lined.
Re: Generic jeep
Yep! What is that along the bottom edge of the side panel? Weld or caulk or ?????????????
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
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- Brigadier General
- Posts: 2519
- Joined: October 1st, 2010, 12:19 am
- Location: El Dorado, Arkansas
Re: Generic jeep
Its all metal, mostly original weld, that seam was welded on the Titan, I know what your getting at tho.
Last edited by Hambone on September 15th, 2017, 1:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Brigadier General
- Posts: 2519
- Joined: October 1st, 2010, 12:19 am
- Location: El Dorado, Arkansas
Re: Generic jeep
Back from the outdoor paint shop, I hate body work and painting, much rather do mechanical, guess that's about to kick in.
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- Brigadier General
- Posts: 2519
- Joined: October 1st, 2010, 12:19 am
- Location: El Dorado, Arkansas
Re: Generic jeep
I bought an A2 windshield frame without the bottom cowl gasket, just got a new gasket, does anyone know what size the 6 screws are? show to be different than A1, what I can find shows 10-16 tapping screw, what are you using, other than the ones that came out of it?